I first met Andrew McUtchen, the charismatic owner of Time + Tide, off the Emerald Coast of Florida in 2023. Though we had never met before, I had some preconceived idea of him based off of his Instagram reels and past releases. We were quick to bond while dodging jellyfish and hoisting sails in the Gulf of Mexico. In no time at all, it became apparent that he was equal parts gregarious and serious about watches. Today marks the release of a new collaboration between Time + Tide and TAG Heuer dubbed the “Sundowner”. This limited edition Aquaracer Solargraph draws some inspiration from Heuer’s history while maintaining a decidedly modern take on the luxe tool watch format.
As is my standard practice, I find it best to look back at the history of TAG Heuer to better understand where this model fits in the lineup. Though the combination of Grade 2 titanium and gold may seem to be a bit of an odd duck (or platypus for the Australian crowd), there is actually a precedent in TAG’s back catalog. Rewind to 1984 – a time when watch brands were fighting to push the boundaries of materials and complications amidst the quartz crisis. TAG Heuer released their “Titanium Collection”. This series of chronographs and time-only models combined gold and titanium in an avant-garde fashion that has rarely been replicated since. To quote the copy from the 1984 Heuer catalog, “Gold with its traditional fascination and titanium with its futuristic evocation of space are combined in noble harmony”.
Though the Titanium Collection from TAG Heuer now dwells in relative obscurity in the catalogs of old, the Sundowner marks a return to the combination of auric accents with the utilitarianism afforded by titanium. As such a fan of vintage watches – there is really no comparison between the ’84 collection and this Aquaracer Solargraph. While the former now appear dated and “of an era” – the Sundowner is contemporary in every way.
The calling card of the Aquaracer Solargraph lineup is the TH50-00 movement. Powered by the rays of the sun, this model utilizes a semi-translucent dial which allows these light beams to energize the movement. From a pragmatic standpoint, this means that as long as the sun is shining, you’re sure to have a watch that is running. Approximately two days of exposure equates to a full charge, and from there it can run for ten months straight. To stretch the life of the charge, the watch can be placed into a power-saving mode by pulling out the crown. The battery itself has a 15-year battery life – meaning that the sun won’t set on the Sundowner’s power until roughly 2039.
Where previous titanium and gold models are maybe best left in the 1980’s, McUtchen and the Time + Tide crew bring new light to this pairing with a vision heavily inspired by the Land Down Under. Australia’s bountiful beaches and expansive outback provide an ample palette from which to draw design cues. The choice of Grade 2 titanium coupled with a sandblasted “no-fuss” finish makes for a watch that is ready for any adventure, be it a trip to Ayers rock or Bondi Beach. A touch of luxury is added to the Sundowner through the inclusion of 18k 5N rose gold accents. The golden TAG Heuer logo at 12 o’clock is mirrored by a matching Time + Tide logo on the southern hemisphere of the dial – a fitting location for an outback-inspired timepiece.
The precious metal accents continue through the striking sword hands of the Aquaracer, along with each of the applied indices. The stark contrast between the warm rose gold and the dark titanium allows both materials to spar playfully. At 40mm in diameter and accompanied by the appropriately-colored khaki fabric strap, this is a wearable timepiece that blends into casual wear as well as anything on the market, while the gleam of gold subtly indicates more precious properties to the keen eye.
All in all – I am glad to see this release from TAG and Time + Tide. It indicates the former’s continued willingness to work with other brands – a trend carried on since the early Heuer days when models were branded for Abercrombie & Fitch, Spirotechnique and many other retailers. It simultaneously allows for consumers to support their favorite online producer of watch content. At roughly $3k USD, this is not inexpensive, but at least you know what you are getting. Much like when I met Time + Tide’s founder years ago, you get exactly what you see. In this case, a built-to-last timepiece ready for a lifetime of adventures. So while the sun may be setting on the opportunity to snag this limited 250-piece collaboration, I have a feeling the Sundowner may signal a new dawn for Time + Tide.
Thanks for taking the time to read along. Congrats to Andrew and the Time + Tide team on what I am certain will be a successful launch. I would love to hear what you think of the watch in the comments below. Feel free to reach out with any feedback or future article suggestions!
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